Grumpy old mountain man living in Spain

Posts tagged with: Patagonia Diaries

The Return Journey, A Patagonian Farewell

Published on 06-12-2025 by El Perro Negro
The journey home was a breeze, a stark, welcome contrast to the stress and queues of the outward leg. This was the easy part, a long exhale after over a month of wonders.

The Hidden Lake, To Share or Not to Share?

Published on 03-12-2025 by El Perro Negro
Water of a piercing blue, fringed by beaches of sand the colour of the Sahara. We were, of course, immediately captivated. A plan was formed.

The Day the Condor Didn't Show

Published on 28-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
A day waiting for the appearance of the Andean Condor

Down Memory Lane to the Refugio del Fraile

Published on 23-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
A return to a classic Patagonian refuge reveals how the landscape, and the experience of trekking through it, has transformed over nearly two decades.

Canuto de Paredón, El Chalténs Best-Kept Secret

Published on 19-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
The weather has finally cleared. After being cooped up by a spell of bad weather, we needed a hike to shake off the rust. The perfect solution? A half-day adven...

Expedition to the Bridge - A Tale of Patagonian "Toughness"

Published on 17-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
We fancied ourselves tough. I mean, genuinely hardy. Our resumes boasted five expeditions across the great Southern Patagonian Ice Cap, a place where the wind i...

Chorillo del Salto and a Race Against the Patagonian Wind

Published on 16-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
We were stealing a day. Sandwiched between brutal weather alerts for wind and rain, we had a precious half-day window. The target? Chorillo del Salto, a popular...

The Apartment

Published on 15-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
We’ve been housebound, or more accurately, apartment-bound, for the last few days. The reason? Patagonia is showing off outside our window with hurricane-forc...

A Windy morning on Cerro Antenna

Published on 13-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
The Patagonian weather is finally breaking. After days of settled conditions, the script has flipped: while patches of sun still linger, the peaks are now swadd...

Feathered Findings November 10th

Published on 12-11-2025 by Kiersten
Some of my favourite finds from our aborted bivvy on Loma de Pliege Tumbado.

How a Bottle of Malbec Lured Me Off the Mountain

Published on 11-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
"I don't think the clouds are going to change color," Kiersten said, her voice barely audible over the wind screaming across the ridge.

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly of Laguna Torre

Published on 08-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
Just back from a stunning two-day backpacking trip to Laguna Torre, at the foot of the mighty Cerro Torre. We're committed to honest travel tales—the sublime,...

Feathered Findings November 7th & 8th

Published on 08-11-2025 by Kiersten
Some of my favourite finds during our two day camping trip to Laguna Torre, returning via a Laguna Capri.  The Torrent Duck obviously has it's own post. I love...

A Double Dose of Duck Delight on the Río Fitzroy!

Published on 07-11-2025 by Kiersten
Talk about a lucky day in Patagonia! We were treated to the spectacular sight of not one, but two stunning male Torrent Ducks riding the rapids of the Río Fitz...

Patagonian Patience and Dive-Bombing Birds

Published on 06-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
Sometimes, the most challenging part of an adventure isn't a gruelling hike or a blizzard on a pass—it's the patience required when your plans are put on hold...

Feathered Findings November 6th

Published on 06-11-2025 by Kiersten
Some of my favourite finds from a potter about town. I've been feeling pretty rough with some bug I've caught, I'm hopeful I'm over the worst now so I'm catchin...

A Tale of Foiled Plans and Four-Hour Pints

Published on 05-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
Greetings from the bottom of the world, where the weather is as predictable as a coin flip and the beer is cheaper than a decent cup of coffee.

Feathered Findings November 4th

Published on 05-11-2025 by Kiersten
Some of my favourite finds today from a circular walk just by town.

Peaks, Condors, Ducks and Clear Skies

Published on 04-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
Another day, another slow pace: just 8km in 5 hours. But today, we have some pretty good excuses.

Smooth Move, Supermarket Chaos & Happy Hour Luck

Published on 03-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
Today marked a little shift in our Patagonian adventure. We said a temporary goodbye to the wonderful Gabriella at the Hotel Confin Patagonico (thanks to Claudi...

Hair Drying in Patagonia

Published on 03-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
Patagonia is known for its ferocious winds. Today they were generally light but there were occasional strong gusts. Kiersten took advantage of this to give her ...

An Inadequate Description of a Perfect Patagonian Hike

Published on 03-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
Let me start with a confession: I am utterly unequipped to do today’s hike justice. My vocabulary fails me, and while I’m a perfectly acceptable photographe...

Feathered Findings November 2nd

Published on 02-11-2025 by Kiersten
A few of my favourite finds today from a circular walk taking in three mountain lakes and Cerro Paredon above the town of El Chalten. A new bird for me, if I'm ...

Feathered Findings November 1st

Published on 01-11-2025 by Kiersten
A few of my favourite finds today from a walk beside the Rio de Las Vueltas.

Day 1 Rio de las Vueltas, Pumas, Pesos, and Pre-Owned Cars

Published on 01-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
The day began, as so many do, at the National Park office. It was a visit that proved more worthwhile than we could have imagined. We were hit with the news str...

The Finest Journey of All (How We Stopped Being Grumpy Gits)

Published on 01-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
If you’ve been following this TravelLog, you’d be forgiven for thinking we’re two joy-sucking vampires who hate fun, sunlight, and functional transportati...

The Final 3 Hours of Travelling

Published on 01-11-2025 by El Perro Negro
After a tough, frustrating 45 hours of difficult travelling, the final 3 hours were unmitigated bliss! The gods were smiling down on us as we approached El Chal...

Everything interesting that happened in 13 hours

Published on 31-10-2025 by El Perro Negro
A 45 second video summary of a 13 hour night flight from Madrid to Buenos Aires. The first time I've had my safety demonstration done, not by the plane stewards...

Queues, queues and wacky races

Published on 31-10-2025 by Kiersten
I'm British. Queuing is supposed to be in my blood, a national sport I'm meant to excel at. But it turns out, I absolutely hate it.

Madrid Airport

Published on 30-10-2025 by El Perro Negro
Well, that was stressful. From arrival at the airport to sitting down with a well deserved beer took 2.5 hours!  Long queues at checkin/bag drop, security and ...

Starting the Journey

Published on 30-10-2025 by El Perro Negro
It's always quite a sad moment when we go on our travels to leave home and our dogs. Even more so when it's an extended trip. Do they sense it will be a lengthy...

Packing Chaos

Published on 24-10-2025 by El Perro Negro
The week before an extended trip is always fraught with packing chaos. What to take, what to travel with etc. Made even more complex because our trip is to the ...

The Important Choice of Tent

Published on 22-10-2025 by El Perro Negro
Spent a few hours today thinking about a tent for Patagonia. Don't need expedition tent as only out for 3 days max at a time. Given ferocity of weather in Patag...

Our Forthcoming Trip To Patagonia

Published on 20-10-2025 by El Perro Negro
At the end of October 2025 my wife and I head back to the town of El Chalten in Patagonia. Its a place we have visited on six previous occasions. This time howe...

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