Grumpy old mountain man living in Spain
Patagonia stands at a crossroads. One path leads to a future where wilderness is a gated asset, a serene backdrop for the ultra-wealthy. The other leads back to the core principles of true ecotourism and public protection, where conservation benefits ecosystems and local communities, and awe-inspiring places remain for all.
The journey home was a breeze, a stark, welcome contrast to the stress and queues of the outward leg. This was the easy part, a long exhale after over a month of wonders.
Water of a piercing blue, fringed by beaches of sand the colour of the Sahara. We were, of course, immediately captivated. A plan was formed.
The condors taught us that the most magnificent views often lie just beyond the point where you think you can wait no longer
A short walk from the edge of El Chaltén, a metal bridge offers a gateway to the quieter, eastern side of the Río de las Vueltas valley. Our destination was vague, but the promise of exploration led u...
Some of my favourite finds, and log, from a 3 day camping trip. Magellanic Woodpecker Crested Caracara Ashy-headed Goose Patagonian Sierra Finch Austral Negrito White-browed Ground Tyrant Dark-fa...
A return to a classic Patagonian refuge reveals how the landscape, and the experience of trekking through it, has transformed over nearly two decades. The Rio Electrico Valley felt familiar, but the s...
The weather has finally cleared. After being cooped up by a spell of bad weather, we needed a hike to shake off the rust. The perfect solution? A half-day adventure in the Cerro Paredón hills, a range...
We fancied ourselves tough. I mean, genuinely hardy. Our resumes boasted five expeditions across the great Southern Patagonian Ice Cap, a place where the wind is less a weather phenomenon and more a p...
Food, Glorious (and Sometimes Surprising) Food When we first arrived in El Chalten in 2006, the dining scene was simple: one restaurant. Return today, and you’re met with a dizzying array of choices....
Some of the finds from Sunday's walk. We seized a small break in the Patagonian weather for a walk to Chorillo del Salto. As I write this on Monday, it's snowing in town—you've got to love a Patagonia...
We were stealing a day. Sandwiched between brutal weather alerts for wind and rain, we had a precious half-day window. The target? Chorillo del Salto, a popular waterfall just outside El Chalten. A 9k...
We’ve been housebound, or more accurately, apartment-bound, for the last few days. The reason? Patagonia is showing off outside our window with hurricane-force winds and driving rain that could strip...
Some of my favourite finds from today's half day walk up a windy Cerro Antenna. Andean Condor Guanaco Long-tailed Meadowlark Just as predicted, it’s a windy day in El Chalten. We seized a brief lull...
The Patagonian weather is finally breaking. After days of settled conditions, the script has flipped: while patches of sun still linger, the peaks are now swaddled in cloud, and the wind has arrived w...
Some of my favourite finds from our aborted bivvy on Loma de Pliege Tumbado. After my illness cost us several good weather days, we decided to seize a narrow window for a hike. The climb was a gruelin...
"I don't think the clouds are going to change color," Kiersten said, her voice barely audible over the wind screaming across the ridge. I grunted, a non-committal "Hmmmm," that hid the battle raging i...
Just back from a stunning two-day backpacking trip to Laguna Torre, at the foot of the mighty Cerro Torre. We're committed to honest travel tales—the sublime, the frustrating, and the downright ridicu...
