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It's August and it's bank holiday. In the cities, towns and villages of southern Spain people are fighting their annual battle against the searing heat. Bank holiday weekend might offer some relief but the beaches will be packed, the rivers walks choc a block with people littering the environment, only the mountains can offer the space, freedom and cool air that people yearn. Yet even in the mountains people seem to gather together on the main summits, drawn there by their very popularity. The main access trails to these popular summits will be awash with people all seeking the "freedom of the mountains".
I go into the mountains for many reasons but certainly one of them is to ensure I get a break from the norms which humanity seems to be building for itself. I want peace, solitude, quiet and beauty and I want to see nature at home in its own environment.
Spanish Ibex (Cabra Montes) running across our path
For this reason for some time I have been operating my "arse about face" backpacking philosophy. This is where you go into the mountains when everyone else is leaving and leave next day when all the day trippers are arriving. That way you get to see the best parts of the day, nature, sunset and sunrise in relative peace and quiet.
My mind for this latest venture had been thinking about a lake at 2700m called Laguna Carnero. Not a spectacular summit nor in a particularly dramatic situation, certainly not popular. Just your regular mountain lake. It is situated in an area people are generally not aware of and have no interest in visiting. I call it a Forgotten Zone! The only visitors apart from local shepherds are a small number of hiking "aficionados".
We took a chairlift to the cool air of 3000 metres. There was a light breeze that necessitated donning a windshirt. A pleasant change from the valley we had left behind an hour earlier. Our journey from here cut across a popular trail but at that time of the afternoon we only met two small groups of people. Within 30 minutes of leaving the charlift station we were on our own and destined not to meet any other human for the next 15 hours.
Dropping into the traverse to Laguna Misterioso
We descended gently, traversing across a mountainside beset with cliffs and jagged boulders. A chaotic scene. Our faint path weaved an intricate way through this landscape until we emerged at the Laguna Misterioso. This is well named as you can not see the lake until you are within 50 metres of it. It's hidden away, it's mysterious! Yet, it's an absolutely stunning lake and yes people do visit here, it's quite well known. But their explorations usually stop here. They return or make a circular walk from here.
Grasses at the side of Laguna Misterioso
The beautiful tributory coming from Laguna Misterioso
Mention must be made of the myriad of tiny streams, tributaries and waterfalls that make up the area below Laguna Misterioso. Green grasses, lichens, colorful plants. Its stunning. The technical term for these green velvety natural wonders is "Borreguiles". A real life "Telly Tubby" landscape!
Streams coming down from Laguna Misterioso
An incredible moss covered stream
The moss covered stream
We pushed on into the valley beyond and rounded the broad lower shoulder of the knife edged Arista del Cartujo. This emerged into a series of beautiful high valleys full of green swathes of small streams. Wild horses grazed in some valleys below us, above us flew Griffon Vultures. Ibex and lots of small birds were seen in abundance including black redstarts, northern wheatears, linnit's, kestrels, and rock sparrows.
Kiersten forgoe photographing the pretty blue trumpet gentians and decided instead to sneak up on a vulture perched on a far away rock. She's never going to become the female David Attenborough as after 15 minutes of sneaking around, talking quietly, discovered it was a cairn of small stones instead.
We easily reached our objective, the Laguna Carnero, but found the banks quite damp so opted to camp on a high shoulder above it and next to a small stream.
Laguna Carnero situated below the Arista de Cartujo ridge
Campsite on a shoulder above Laguna Carnero
The small stream next to our campsite
The peak of Tozal del Cartujo dominated the view to our east, the western slopes slowly dropping down to the summits of the Cumbres Verdes hills near Granada. After coffee, a small slurp of Malbec and a dehydrated mountain meal we retired to our tent and awaited the emergence of the stars and milkyway. They duly arrived in all their glory.
The last light of sunset and the initial stars
Stars and Milky Way out above the campsite
The wind got up a bit during the night and we had to close the tent doors. At first light it was a bit fresh, maybe down to12°C, so extra thermals were required. We left camp at 7:30am and reversed the previous days route. Early morning hiking whilst the rest of the country is still sleeping is a marvellous experience.
Heading up towards the Laguna Misterioso early morning
A stop for coffee at Laguna Misterioso, arriving at the gondola station for our descent just as the first day trippers were arriving, eager to begin their noisy bank holiday adventure.
Coffee stop on the grassy banks of Laguna Misterioso
Morning sun hitting Laguna Misterioso
Leaving Laguna Misterioso
We were back home just after midday, a bit tired but happy and content that we had made the most of our short time in the mountains.
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