A Hidden Loop - Discovering the Eastern Side of the Río de las Vueltas Valley
A short walk from the edge of El Chaltén, a metal bridge offers a gateway to the quieter, eastern side of the Río de las Vueltas valley. Our destination was vague, but the promise of exploration led u...
Feathered Findings November 19th, 20th & 21st
Some of my favourite finds, and log, from a 3 day camping trip. Magellanic Woodpecker Crested Caracara Ashy-headed Goose Patagonian Sierra Finch Austral Negrito White-browed Ground Tyrant Dark-fa...
Down Memory Lane to the Refugio del Fraile
A return to a classic Patagonian refuge reveals how the landscape, and the experience of trekking through it, has transformed over nearly two decades. The Rio Electrico Valley felt familiar, but the s...
Canuto de Paredón, El Chalténs Best-Kept Secret
The weather has finally cleared. After being cooped up by a spell of bad weather, we needed a hike to shake off the rust. The perfect solution? A half-day adventure in the Cerro Paredón hills, a range...
Expedition to the Bridge - A Tale of Patagonian "Toughness"
We fancied ourselves tough. I mean, genuinely hardy. Our resumes boasted five expeditions across the great Southern Patagonian Ice Cap, a place where the wind is less a weather phenomenon and more a p...
From Pizzas to Pesos - A Foodies Guide to Eating in El Chalten
Food, Glorious (and Sometimes Surprising) Food When we first arrived in El Chalten in 2006, the dining scene was simple: one restaurant. Return today, and you’re met with a dizzying array of choices....
Feathered Findings November 16th
Some of the finds from Sunday's walk. We seized a small break in the Patagonian weather for a walk to Chorillo del Salto. As I write this on Monday, it's snowing in town—you've got to love a Patagonia...
Chorillo del Salto and a Race Against the Patagonian Wind
We were stealing a day. Sandwiched between brutal weather alerts for wind and rain, we had a precious half-day window. The target? Chorillo del Salto, a popular waterfall just outside El Chalten. A 9k...
The Apartment
We’ve been housebound, or more accurately, apartment-bound, for the last few days. The reason? Patagonia is showing off outside our window with hurricane-force winds and driving rain that could strip...
Feathered & Furry Findings November 13th
Some of my favourite finds from today's half day walk up a windy Cerro Antenna. Andean Condor Guanaco Long-tailed Meadowlark Just as predicted, it’s a windy day in El Chalten. We seized a brief lull...
A Windy morning on Cerro Antenna
The Patagonian weather is finally breaking. After days of settled conditions, the script has flipped: while patches of sun still linger, the peaks are now swaddled in cloud, and the wind has arrived w...
Feathered Findings November 10th
Some of my favourite finds from our aborted bivvy on Loma de Pliege Tumbado. After my illness cost us several good weather days, we decided to seize a narrow window for a hike. The climb was a gruelin...
How a Bottle of Malbec Lured Me Off the Mountain
"I don't think the clouds are going to change color," Kiersten said, her voice barely audible over the wind screaming across the ridge. I grunted, a non-committal "Hmmmm," that hid the battle raging i...
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly of Laguna Torre
Just back from a stunning two-day backpacking trip to Laguna Torre, at the foot of the mighty Cerro Torre. We're committed to honest travel tales—the sublime, the frustrating, and the downright ridicu...
Feathered Findings November 7th & 8th
Some of my favourite finds during our two day camping trip to Laguna Torre, returning via a Laguna Capri. The Torrent Duck obviously has it's own post. I love the light that shines through the Lenga...
A Double Dose of Duck Delight on the Río Fitzroy!
Talk about a lucky day in Patagonia! We were treated to the spectacular sight of not one, but two stunning male Torrent Ducks riding the rapids of the Río Fitzroy. These aren't your average pond ducks...
Patagonian Patience and Dive-Bombing Birds
Sometimes, the most challenging part of an adventure isn't a gruelling hike or a blizzard on a pass—it's the patience required when your plans are put on hold. Today was a lesson in exactly that. A fa...
Feathered Findings November 6th
Some of my favourite finds from a potter about town. I've been feeling pretty rough with some bug I've caught, I'm hopeful I'm over the worst now so I'm catching up with some pictures. The first pictu...
A Tale of Foiled Plans and Four-Hour Pints
Greetings from the bottom of the world, where the weather is as predictable as a coin flip and the beer is cheaper than a decent cup of coffee. First, a mission statement. We’re not here to sell you a...