Bit sad this morning as we have decided to cancel next weeks Via Ferrata trip to the Italian Dolomites. So many reports from people about the bad weather and early season snow. Freezing my butt off and carrying winter equipment wasn't in my mind when I booked this.
Que Sera, Sera. It is what it is. Gives me something to look forward to next July.
Remembering my Leonberger, Bruno. A big dog with a big heart. 75 kilos of friendly, fun filled dog and in his element in the snow. Famous too, once appeared on BBC Children's TV.
We don't ever regret utilising and repurposing the swimming pool as a greenhouse. I'm not much of a water baby and swimming pools take a lot of maintenance. How much better to use that water to grow fresh produce. Satisfying.
Bit warm to be walking below 2000 meters but the cool breeze and forest foliage helped. Yesterday we did a walk in the Sierra de Huetor, combining the Cañada del Senero with an off piste ascent of Cerro del Corza 1606m.
My first visit to Cerro del Corza. It's a wonderful viewpoint for not only the Sierra Nevada, but also the Majaliar and Peñon de la Mata peaks.
Cold beers back in los Faroles, Lanjaron were most welcome
A bright blue sky with a few clouds overlooks a small group of hikers and some lone trees5 hikers approach a rocky peak known as "El Pulpito"At the fire lookout post of top of Cerro del Corza in Spains Sierra de Huetor rangeHikers pass along a wide forest trail
The Rio Lanjaron valley heading up towards the Sierra Nevada. On the left on sunlit slopes the outskirts of the town of LanjaronThe cliffs of Tajos Colerao with early morning sunlight. Beyond the start of the Sierra de AlmijaraLines of olive groves lit up in the morning sun. In the distance a reservoir and the Mediterranean sea
I really enjoyed watching the KAOS TV series, a dark comedy and modern take on Greek mythology. Actually made me want to take a peek into Greek mythology as I never covered it during my educational years.
Alcazaba 3369m is the 3rd highest peak in the Sierra Nevada and yet, in my opinion, it is undoubtedly the finest.
Alcazaba, the Fortress, is well named, guarded on 3 sides by cliffs. A few days ago we started from Laguna de Borreguil & reached the Alcazaba summit plateau via a steep scree gully named "El Colaero", which brought us out at the col between Puntal de la Cornisa 3316m & Peñon del Globo 3296m. A short stroll from there to the summit.
Some of our group on the summit of Alcazaba with the vertical north west face to the left.Alcazaba from Puntal de la CornisaThe north ridge of Mulhacen in morning sunlight. In the distance the summit of VeletaApproaching the scree gully of El Colaero from the lakes at Siete Lagunas
We never camp at Laguna Hondera. It's popular, noisy & frequented by hungry foxes. Head a little uphill however & there are some delectable places to bivouac (make sure you don't camp on the fragile "borreguiles", grassy areas adjacent to the lake). We found some pre prepared bivouac spots near Laguna de Borreguil where we watched the sun set & cooked evening meals.Then laid back to watch the stars & milky way pass overhead. Life is simple, but good.
Evening sunlight reflected on the summit of Peñon del Globo and also in the lake belowOur camp situated below Mulhacen. highest mountain in mainland Spain. Morning sunlight hits the top of the mountain. Our camp remains in shadow as is the adjacent lake.A group of backpackers bivouac in small walled shelters below a rocky mountainA group of backpackers are preparing an evening meal in small walled shelters. Behind the final rays of the sun reach the mountain of Alcazaba 3269m
The walk into Siete Lagunas a couple of days ago involved passing two small hidden lakes, rarely visited by other humans. Laguna Prado Negro and another further north which doesn't have a name. It should, it's stunning! The wonderful wild side of the Sierra Nevada that few others get to see
A person with red jacket stands looking out at some mountain rangesA small lake sits hidden in a rocky wilderness. The lake is surrounded by green grassy banksTwo hikers leave a small lake. Big mountain walls behindTwo feet in some mountain shows are seen in the foreground. Behind lies a small lake with rocky slopes beyond
The morning sun appears over a ridge line to the left whilst a person stands on an isolated boulder on the right. Nearer the camera there is a lake rippled with wind driven wavelets. The lake had some small stepping stones
Packing for a two day trip to climb the mighty Alcazaba (3350m) starting tomorrow. The finest peak in the Sierra Nevada. Bivouac at Laguna Altera (Siete Lagunas). Will be able to travel lightweight, no need for tent just open bivouac (groundsheet, quilt, pad) Total 4.5 kilograms (incl cooking/camera gear & normal hill pack) + about a litre of water to add.
Nothing better on a hot summer Spanish day than home made cold Gazpacho soup containing vegetables from the garden - cucumber, tomatoes, garlic, cayenne peppers & onion. The bread was home made too. Simple but tasty.
Definite autumnal feel to the morning dog walk. Lovely colors, especially when the first rays of the sun hit the hillsides. Cooler with a slight breeze. Maybe end of the early morning/pre sunrise start of summer dog walking?
A person in blue t shirt with white dog stroll along a trail with golden grasses. A small farm sites in a green olive grove in mid distance. Beyond lies a lake with hills beyondA white chapel on a hill on the left overlooks a green valley with a small town sitting on the right hand side on a plateauA husky and white dog stand at the base of a flowered cross with the outlines of a town beyond.
Exciting news. I'm going back to the Dolomites for a week at the end of September as I feel there is some unfinished business. This time, instead of just trekking, we are aiming to do 6 high level Via Ferrata routes in the Sella/San Martino mountain range in 5 days. Will use two refuges as a base. Really looking forward to it.
Three people gaze out at some sharp mountain peaks and pinnacles. In the background is another group of higher mountains with some cloud gathering around the summits
Silent Hiking Laguna Misterioso and Molinillo Waterfall
An August summer day in the Sierra Nevada and yet almost alone for all of this 6 hour hike visiting hidden lakes and spectacular waterfalls. No need for music in this short video, I shall let the wind and water speak for itself.
Friday is watering day for us here in the campo. Great to see the olive and lemon trees being nourished in the morning sun. Our young avocados and apples need it every couple of days. Rewarding.
Must say, I'm really enjoying putting together short 3 minute videos of my hikes. Adding a new dimension to my day in the hills.
I'm certainly no expert, but In the old days it used to take loads of editing on powerful desktop computers to produce a video. Now it's done on a mobile phone in a few minutes. Just incredible.
15 min video - "Wanderings on and off the Alta Via 2 trek in the Dolomites"
One week of traditional hut to hut trekking and one completely different week "making it up as we went along". All the time making our way southwards through the Italian Dolomite mountains. In total we covered over 130km and with over 7000 metres of ascent.
Sorry been out of touch my fellow federation members. Had a bit of a rough week. Energy crashed after finishing my 12 day trek through the Italian Dolomites. At the same time a minute grass spike that had been lodged in my thumb for a month decided to become infected. Very painful and still unable to use my right hand. To cap it all the journey back home to Spain was long, drawn out and frustrating, thanks Ryanair! Slowly getting my mojo back though.
2/2 What a blast it has been. Apart from the dramatic scenery we have met some interesting people, stayed in incredible places & eaten great food. We are already thinking of coming back & using some refuges as a base for via ferrata.
Thanks to @khusky for being the ultimate hiking buddy.
Now for two days relaxation & sightseeing before our return to Spain.
Here's a, totally unrelated, short video of an adorable cat we encountered at a refuge coffee stop this morning.
1/2 Today we finished our trek through the Italian Dolomites and hiked out to the town of Fiera di Primiero.
First week on the Alta Via 2 and the second making our own way on deserted trails, over narrow passes and alpine pastures.
My watch tells me we have covered 130 kilometres with over 7000 metres of ascent/descent. No wonder the old legs are showing signs of accumulated fatigue.
A hiker walk along a narrow path through a very green forestTo the left of a dark tree are green forest tops and a background of mountain peaks with cloud interspersed in their summitsA green alpine pasture with some the stumps in the foreground. Behind some mountains with cloud
Local hike near Sagron today as heavy rain around. We did a 7km loop to the Val delle Moneghe. A marvellous viewpoint and a winter ice climbing playground. Then on up through the forest to the refuge of the same name.
Some great lighting early on through the forest sections as seen on the images below
Looking up the valley of the Val delle MonegheSunshine and morning mists illuminate a shadowed forest trackSunshine and morning mists illuminate a shadowed forest track
After 10 days we finally had to put on our 20€ ponchos 🤣
Have to say though they worked fine. Backpack and ourselves remained dry and comfortable. Good job we were going downhill though as would be a sweat trap heading up. After an umbrella maybe the ultimate rain garment?
Today we clocked over the 100km accumulated mark as we made our way to Passo Cereda.
A quick stop there and then it was on another 4km to a little gem of a hotel we found. Yes, no refuge for us tonight, a bit of a treat. Hotel Giasenei in the tiny hamlet of Sagron, situated on a raised alpine meadow surrounded by stunning peaks. Just glorious.
Here for two nights as bad weather coming in. Just local hike tomorrow.
The small hamlet of Matiuz near SagronSmall buildings sit in grassy meadows with huge peaks towering aboveForest with lovely light coming throughHotel Giasenei near Sagron.
One of the nice things about long distance trails like the one we are on at present is the people from all walks of life and countries that you meet along the way. The common denominator for all is the trail itself and it unites.
Each night we talk about the days adventures and discuss plans for the day to come. An eye is also kept out for them at the next refuge.They become trail mates and a certain camaraderie develops.
Here's a few images from yesterday
A house sits at the left hand edge of a green grassy alp with a curtain if pine trees behind. At the back on the right rises s huge grey limestone mountainA glacial river gushes downstream through boulders. The riverbanks are surrounded by pines. At the back is a mountain with cloud on the sunmitA gap in some large pine trees in a forest suggests a warn sunny opening aheadLayers of green grasses and trees stretching into the distance. The grass in the foreground is illuminated by the morning sun
Continuing our journey we headed SE from San Martino passing through mature forests & stunning alpine meadows. A few hours later we emerged at the Forcella Col dei Cistri & the magnificent peaks of the Val Canali appeared ahead. Our next challenge.
If the weather allows we head up the Val Canali valley tomorrow morning to do the "Ferrata de Canalone" just above the Rifugio Treviso.
Italian Meteo had multiple alerts out over the next few days for rain and thunderstorms. We made the decision to take a lower variant of the AV2 that skirted the west side of Pale di San Martino massif.
This 11km trail led us down through beautiful alpine meadows & over rolling hills to Passo Rolle. There we caught local bus to the chic alpine resort of San Martino di Castrozza.
Starting the trail down through green pines and meadows to Passo Rolle. Above the hiker are dramatic rock facesA road winds its way through green hillsides. Above rise some dramatic mountain peaks of the Pale di San Martino rangeLooking through a gap in some pine trees towards a mountain rock face riding up and with clouds interspersed in the summitAn upper area of barren rock faces and verticality contrasts with the green lushness of a valley floor
Its a tough life in the mountains, especially on a long distance trek like the Italian Alta Via 2. But tonight I must be honest. We are staying at the lovely Hotel/Rifugio Capanna Passo Valles where we are indulging in such local luxuries as Aperol Spritz, Apfel Strudel and flavoured grappas.
Making the most of it as tomorrow we head back up to the more basic mountain refuges for 3 nights
4 Aperol Spritz orange and pink flavored drinksApfel Strudel desert with custard cream4 small glasses of favoured grappas. Pine resin, honey, blueberry and herb
Short rest day today so a lie in, leisurely breakfast & a 6km stroll to our overnight refuge. Just arrived at midday when the heavens opened & an incredible rain and hail storm erupted. What luck we had not been caught out.
Now tucking into "gnocchi con ricotta affumicata" (delicate potato dumplings with smoked cheese)
Photos from our approach walk to the Pale di San Martino range
Green meadows with and approaching storm behindApproaching the Pale di San Martino mountains. Wild flowers in a green meadowRays of light between pine trees with a mountain range behindA hiker walks towards some distant mountains
All during the long afternoon descent from the pass at Forca Rossa these jagged mountains were in view. They are our next challenge to cross. Much more technical evidently. They look it!
5 days on the trot are beginning to tell. Thankfully as we are near the half way point we have built in 2 half days for the next section to the Rifugio Mulaz.
Looking forward to a short break to let the legs and lungs recover.
Rifugio Castiglioni Marmolada to Passo San Pellegrino. 14km, 1000+m ascent.
Very tough day ascending through the humid, oppressive pine forests near Malga to the pass at Forca Rossa. Then nice descent through colourful alpine meadows lined with wild flowers to San Pellegrino.
An alpine refuge sits at the base of the Marmolada mountainDescending through green alpine meadowsLooking at the stunning view. The south face of the Marmolada mountain behindAscending the path that led to the pass at Forca Rossa
Threat of afternoon thunderstorms had us leaving refuge early at 6am. Had these glorious mountains to ourselves as we climbed steep snowfields & scrambled along cable assisted passages. We crossed over the alti plano, lunar landscape of the Sella Group to drop down to the busy road pass at Passo Pordoi and onto our overnight stay at the base of the magnificent Marmolada.
Green alpine meadows contrasting with the stark grey limestone mountainsidesCrossing the lunar landscape of the alti plano of the Sell GroupCrossing snowfields on the way to the Rifugio BoeThe Rifugio Pisciadu reflected in the lake of the same name
Another tough day of startling contrasts. From the beautiful early morning departure and excellent traverse to the dramatic Cir pinnacles to the crowded mass of noisy humanity at Passo Gardena.
The final 450m climb up the gully (Val Setus) to the refuge was as expected, very gnarly with cables assisting uplift in the upper section. Stunning scenery though.
The Rifugio Pisciadu 2487 metres. Some spectacular mountain scenery behind the hutTaking a break on a via ferrata sectionLooking down a rocky pass towards some green alpine meadowsSpectacular rock scenery Cir Pinnacles above Passo Gardena
Rifugio Genova to Rifugio Puez today. An exciting and interesting day travelling 11 km with 900 m ascent/descent. Up and over steep passes, stunning views and the added interest of mid morning coffee stop in a beautifully situated refuge and an optional via ferrata along the route, that we loved.
Wild flowers galore, chirping marmots, dramatic scenery. A tough day certainly but extremely rewarding.
Hikers on a path below a pass surrounded by mountainsBackpackers walk towards some distant mountain summitsA mountain in cloud towers above some green meadows with some walkers
Dolomites Alta Via 2 day 1- Tough first day on the trail. Bressanone to the Prose Hutte and then onto Rifugio Genova. 16 km and over 1100m ascent. Enjoyed the spectacular scenery and the apple strudel lunch. Didn't enjoy the post lunch brutal ascent that eventually led to the lovely Rifugio Genova.
Two hikers walk along a trail with jagged mountain scenery behindHikers approach along a trail to the Rifugio GenovaHikers walk up a track alongside a spectacular rocky valleyWaterfalls plunge over rock steps
An extremely frustrating day of tiring travel on crowded trains with many changes and much confusion. But, we've ended the day with some cold beers and tasty pizza in the lovely south Tirol town of Bressanone/Brixen. Tomorrow we head into the mountains for 13 days on the long distance Alta Via 2 trail. Its going to be tough. It will stretch me to the limit and who knows what adventures are just around the corner.