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The "Arista de las Campanitas" from Cerro los Machos to the very summit of Veleta is a superb scramble/easy rock climb with a distinctive alpine nature. We did this last week in the hot sun, the ridge never falling below 3000 meters. I guess, grading wise, it would certainly be a grade 3S scramble but there are some very exposed sections and some short grade 3 rock climbing sections.
The easy descent from the summit of Zacatin
From the summit of Cerro de los Machos the obvious ridge of Las Campanitas lies to the west. This is a switchback ridge over the Veleta sub-peaks of Zacatín (3307m), Campanario (3318m) and Salón (3325m). Walk west along the broad ridge until the start of the first rocky rise to Zacatín. Here keep to the ridge crest for the maximum enjoyment. It is simple grade 1 stuff and just a sample of the superb delights to follow.
After descending to the next col between Zacatín and Campanario though things appear decidedly more difficult. The west ridge of Campanario rises like a needle into the sky. A magnificent sight. The wise will don helmets here as the scrambling level goes up a notch. A rope could be useful here.
A bold approach is required for the ascent of this ridge. The airy and spectacular sections look hard but are on mainly good rock so that the confident scrambler will gain most benefit. The way is slightly to the left of the ridge (the alternative to the right being overhanging!) following a line marked by the passage of others. A cool head is required as it is steep, but there are superb “thank god” holds to assist upward progress.
On the summit of Campanario looking towards the final walls leading to Veleta
The exposure eases at the summit of Campanario and an easy descent is made just left of the ridge to the next col before Salón. At this col there are signs of tracks to left and right. The safest way is to pass to the right here as it is the less looser alternative. It rises easily on the northern side to a another small col. Now the route starts to traverse upwards and left in a series of small steps to gain the col between Salón and Veleta. The savage cleft of the Canuto del Veleta drops steeply down on the right here. It is a popular winter mountaineering route (AD) and has even been skied!
Scrambling up the easy ground of Salon
Nearing the summit of Salon before the Col del Veleta
A direct ascent of Veleta from the col is out of the question. Instead traverse some 20m horizontally south on a vague path. The red letters “FF” marked on a rock signify the start of Fidel Fierro, the route to the summit. The Fidel Fierro route is taken, care needed on the broken rock walls. It is similar scrambling to that on Campanario. Some steep rocky sections mixed with some scree ledges. It rises until below the summit ruin, cuts through a short gully and ends up on Veleta summit.
The climb finishes on the very summit of Veleta. Last week our group (average age 65+!) reached the summit to the bemused stares of groups of younger hikers who had walked up to the summit. A superb day scramble for the adventurous.
The inital climb out of Fidel Fierro
The final chimney leading up to a ledge just below the summit of Veleta
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