Backpacking in the Pyrenees

Our walking and backpacking trip to the Pyrenees to do the "3000 Ibones", including a road trip back home

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Backpacking in the Pyrenees

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Backpacking in the Pyrenees - the 3000 Ibones

Not many english speakers have heard of the 3000 Ibónes. Ibon is the Aragon word for mountain lake. It was this that first attracted me to the area which lies west of the Ordessa/Vignamale range. I had never been to the Pyrenees so the idea of camping by lakes and rivers and skipping over the border passes between Spain and France held an appeal.

We initially intended to do the full 7 day and 100km+ itinerary but concerns over weight to be carried cut this plan back to 2 - 3 day excursions instead. I have hit 70 years of age and need every bit of help I can get. For a 3 day trip I could cut my weight down to 7kg including consumables.

Arrival in Escarilla

The drive from my home in Lanjaron to our base at Escarilla in the Pyrenees would take 9 hours. We split the journey and stayed overnight at the Hotel Marivella in Calatayud, leaving a 2 hour journey to the Pyrenees the following morning.

Escarilla is a small but charming village located in the Tena Valley and situated at an altitude of 1,150 meters. It offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and is known for its peaceful atmosphere and traditional Pyrenean architecture.

Reflections in a lake Reflections in a lake

Luckily, our friends Jill and Pete have an apartment in Escarilla and they very kindly allowed us to stay with them. This was perfect as a backpacking base, the start of our planned route from Baños de Panticosa being only a 20 minute drive away.

We had an afternoon drive to Formigal to get a feel for the area and to see some rare Ladies Slipper Orchids (Cypripedium calceolus).

Riverside flowers and distant mountains, Formigal Riverside flowers and distant mountains, Formigal

First look at Baños de Panticosa

Jill and Pete took us to visit Baños de Panticosa, a renowned spa and mountain resort nestled at an altitude of 1,636 meters, surrounded by stunning alpine landscapes, high peaks, glacial lakes, and lush forests. The resort is famous for its thermal springs, known since Roman times for their therapeutic properties.

Baños de Panticosa Baños de Panticosa

The first impression I had was seeing the volume of water coming off the mountains in a series of huge waterfalls. Just incredible, and testament to the amount of late season snow that was still around in the mountains.

We walked the short distance to see the Cascada del Barranco de Argualas, a dramatic, narrow cascade plunging into small turquoise pools and surrounded by sheer rock walls and moss-covered boulders, giving it a wild, untouched feel.

Day walk to the Refugio Respumoso 2150m

10th June 2025

Due to an AEMET weather warning for the area we cancelled our proposed 3 day trip and opted for a day walk to the Refugio Respomuso instead. Last thing we wanted was to spend the first night camping out in storms. The hike to the refuge is one of the most scenic and accessible high-mountain hikes in the area and starts at La Sarra Parking (1,630m)

The ascent The ascent

It's a big day though with 17km round trip and 520m ascent in a steady climb with rocky sections follow the GR-11 trail along the Caldarés River, passing the Cascada de Panticosa and the Puente de Coronas. You enter the Valle de los Ibones, with glacial lakes and the trail steepens near Piedras Blancas. There is a final climb to the Respomuso Reservoir. The refuge sits just above the dam.

Refugio de Respumoso Refugio de Respumoso

It was a good introduction to the area but we knew this June we would have to deal with high temperatures, afternoon storms and lots of water running off the mountains possibly causing difficulties crossing rivers.

Gushing waters Gushing waters

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Storms! Durston Mid-X 2 Tent Review

11th June 2025

Next day, and with no weather warnings out, we headed out on a planned 3 or 4 day backpacking route that would take us over into France. Our first night's experience with the 2 person Durston X-Mid 2 tent didn't quite work out exactly as planned. We had ascended 550m from Baños de Panticosa to the valley floor west of the Embalse de Bachimaña Alto lake.

Crossing rivers Crossing rivers

The AEMET Weather forecast predicted no surprises and we had intended to camp higher but a chance encounter with a group of French trekkers suggested there was bad weather coming in that night. They advised us to sleep low. We heeded this advice. As it turned out it was a good job we did.

Camp Camp

We erected the tent behind a low stone wall surrounded by streams. A beautiful spot, on lovely soft grasses. The 4 main corners and 2 pole guys were staked down really well. At 4pm we had the first storm front passing through that lasted just over an hour. Noisy thunder and heavy rain, some hail but not much more. Great we thought as we settled down to a long nights sleep. Not! Between midnight and 5am we had the full works ... thunder, lightning, hail and gale force winds. Very little sleep.

It was so wet at one time that our porch areas were invaded by amphibians, sheltering to get out of the storm. At least it provided some entertainment watching the small salamanders and newts trying to escape the frogs!

The view from close to the camp The view from close to the camp

Full on storm conditions pertained all night and we were relying on a new tent held up by two walking poles and weighing in at under a kilo. At times we were both holding a walking pole each to steady it in the gales. Don't quite know how the new Durston Mid-X 2 tent did it really. But, it did, so hats off to Durston. It held up really well. Somewhat scary at the time though.

We had some problems in high winds with the extended walking poles collapsing. Needed tightening. We also had one pole that wouldn't quite fit in a roof slot, which needed some care. The scary thing was that the tents capability under such conditions was unknown to us at the time and we had nowhere to go in the event of any failure.

Needless to say, sleep was very difficult and we had a big day looming!

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Crossing Borders

12th June 2025

We awoke to calm, quiet and a beautiful blue sky day. After the stresses of the previous evening this came as a welcome relief.

The morning after The morning after

We were both very tired after our night without much sleep but were determined to cross over the Puerto de Marcadeau 2541m into France. We ascended steeply on a rocky trail, which higher up became obliterated by snow, making route finding a bit more interesting.

Ascending from the lake Ascending from the lake

We passed by some ice filled lakes (Ibón de Percico de la Canal) and reached the snow free pass. No passports needed to be stamped here though, in fact nobody within miles!

There is something that stirs the blood when you cross a mountain range between countries. As we reached the pass, saw the mountains and green valleys of France I spontaneously burst into a very bad rendition of "La Marseillaise".

Puerto de Marcadeau Puerto de Marcadeau

The pass offers panoramic views of the Vignemale massif (France) and Picos del Infierno (Spain).

The descent to Refuge Wallon (1,865m, France) followed, some initial snow slopes required some care but we did not need to use our crampons. We followed the HRP (Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne) trail steeply down into the Vallée de Marcadau.

Initial snow descent Initial snow descent

The Vallée de Marcadau came as a complete contrast and surprise. Instead of rocky bouldery mountainside we met a lush green valley floor filled with alpine flowers and chirping marmots.

Vallée de Marcadau Vallée de Marcadau

The final descent through pine forests took us to the modern Refuge Wallon, a cosy French mountain hut. The lack of sleep had taken it's toll and we opted for a couple of beers each on the refuge terrace. Our planned route required another 2-3 hours hiking and a further 300m of ascent. We were took tired and too taken by the serene valley we had just encountered.

We had to change plan as storms were again due overnight in a couple of days time, maybe too soon for us to spend another night in France? We decided to return to Spain by the same route the following day. It was, to be fair, a superb hiking route that we both really enjoyed.

Approaching the Refuge Wallon Approaching the Refuge Wallon

Refuge Wallon Refuge Wallon

After a while we explored the close-by refuge camping areas but had already fallen in love with a couple of sites further back up the valley. We walked 45 minutes back up the HRP to a level grassy site next to a gushing river. A perfect location.

Vallée de Marcadau Vallée de Marcadau

After erecting camp and eating a meal I lay down and slept the "Sleep of the Gods". Almost 12 hours of beautiful, uninterrupted dreamy sleep, with the constant music of the nearby waters always there. Was this heaven?

Camp Vallée de Marcadau Camp Vallée de Marcadau

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Return to Spain

13th June 2025

I awoke fresh, content and ready for what would undoubtedly be a big day. We had to cross back over the pass into France and make our way back to baños de Panticosa before the storms arrived.

Morning light at the campsite Morning light at the campsite

We set off at 7am and started the steep but steady climb to the pass. Kiersten led the way as I was struggling to get going until a breakfast stop with GORP (nut/fruit mix) picked me up and gave me the necessary energy to continue.

Ascending to the pass Ascending to the pass

Route finding was easier in ascent than descent as the main tracks were constantly buried beneath the remaining winter snows so we had to take to rocky slopes or take the snows direct.

Descending from the pass Descending from the pass

We only met one person on our way to the pass and only a handful beyond that too. June is a good time to visit here as I suspect it would be very different in July and August.

Close to the finish Close to the finish

The descent to Baños de Panticosa went without a hitch. It was a long and slow descent involving a boots-off, river crossing but we eventually made it and enjoyed a cold beer at the car park at the end of the trail.

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Vegetarians in Spain

I do love my adopted homeland, but rural Spain still can't seem to get it's head around those strange beings called "Vegetarians". A conversation (translated) that I had this week when there was nothing on a menu that didn't include meat or fish ...

Me: My wife is a vegetarian can she have just egg and chips?

Waiter: Oh no, does she have an allergy to meat?

Me: Er, yes, sort of

Waiter: OK, certainly we could do that. Would she like some chorizo with the egg and chips?

The Road Trip South

We took our time heading south back to Granada, preferring a slow casual journey back home. Mornings were spent doing something (usually nature watching) and then travelling, leaving the late afternoon early evening for siesta in the next hotel room.

Daimiel

Andujar

Cazorla

Castril

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