December 2, 2025 by Richard
The condors taught us that the most magnificent views often lie just beyond the point where you think you can wait no longer
Silence from us usually means one of two things: utter failure, or the intense focus that precedes a hard-won victory. For the last few days, it was a frustrating mix of both. Our quest to photograph the Andean Condor in its raw, mountainous realm had become a game of chess. Two blisteringly hot days were spent manoeuvring into position, only to be rewarded with distant specks and the unmistakable, and somewhat mocking, view of condor backsides disappearing over ridges. Patience, as we were learning, is not a passive virtue in Patagonia; it is an active, aching endurance. A Change of...
November 28, 2025 by Kiersten
A day not finding the Andean Condor
We scrambled up to a favourite view point in time for the afternoon return of the Condors. Yes I've studied the habits, I know what time they return home. There was a cool breeze blowing and sunshine. We sat for four hours, waiting. The Condors decided they were not coming home. In that time I managed to burn my legs. How after all these years can I still forget to apply sun cream!
November 28, 2025 by Richard
A day waiting for the appearance of the Andean Condor
Kiersten's portfolio from our trip is already overflowing with marvellous bird images. But one kingly absence remained: a close-up of the legendary Andean Condor. We were determined to fill that void. Yesterday was to be our "Day of the Condor." Our mission began with a scramble up the low rocks on the east side of Cerro Paredon, joining a ridge that feels like the spine of the world. To our west, the cliff face plummeted, a sheer drop straight down to the turquoise line of the Río de las Vueltas. The day was perfect, sun-drenched, warm, with only a gentle...
November 24, 2025 by Kiersten
Some of my favourite finds, and log, from a 3 day camping trip. Magellanic Woodpecker Crested Caracara Ashy-headed Goose Patagonian Sierra Finch Austral Negrito White-browed Ground Tyrant Dark-faced Ground Tyrant Austral Parakeet Buff-winged Cinclodes The trip was a flood of memories. We camped at Piedra del Fraile, the same spot that served as our first night's camp on all five of our previous icecap expeditions. From there, we set out on a walk towards the icecap, feeling its familiar, magnetic pull—perhaps from the way the mountains converge, or something more intangible. This time, however, we resisted and turned uphill towards...
November 17, 2025 by Kiersten
Some of the finds from Sunday's walk. We seized a small break in the Patagonian weather for a walk to Chorillo del Salto. As I write this on Monday, it's snowing in town—you've got to love a Patagonian summer! Thorn-tailed Rayadito Austral Thrush Fire-eyed Diucon Southern Lapwing American Kestrel Andean Condor Upland Goose We arrived early and had the waterfall to ourselves—a luxury! On the trail, one of my "nemesis birds" landed right in front of me. I raised my camera only to see: "battery exhausted." I was devastated. The good news? Richard's camera uses the same battery. On the...
November 13, 2025 by Kiersten
Some of my favourite finds from today's half day walk up a windy Cerro Antenna. Andean Condor Guanaco Long-tailed Meadowlark Just as predicted, it’s a windy day in El Chalten. We seized a brief lull in the weather—a precious window between yesterday's gusts and the stronger winds forecast for this afternoon and tomorrow. With our backpacks loaded with cameras and extra layers, we set out. My expectations for wildlife sightings were low, but the morning held some beautiful surprises. The undisputed stars were the Andean Condors, putting on a dramatic show as they battled the ferocious winds, struggling just to...
November 12, 2025 by Kiersten
Some of my favourite finds from our aborted bivvy on Loma de Pliege Tumbado. After my illness cost us several good weather days, we decided to seize a narrow window for a hike. The climb was a grueling 1000 meters with heavy overnight packs, making "slow and steady" our only pace. For a birder like me, that’s perfect. I’d hoped to birdwatch at specific spots on the way up and again the next morning, but as we’d soon learn, this trip had its own plans. Magellanic Woodpecker Austral Parakeet White-throated Caracara Ocra-napped Ground Tyrant Our first real break was by...
November 8, 2025 by Kiersten
Some of my favourite finds during our two day camping trip to Laguna Torre, returning via a Laguna Capri. The Torrent Duck obviously has it's own post. I love the light that shines through the Lenga forests here. Fire-eyed Diucon Dark-bellied Cinclodes House Wren Patagonian Sierra Finch White-browed Ground Tyrant Rufous-collared Sparrow Austral Thrush White-crested Elaenia
November 7, 2025 by Kiersten
Talk about a lucky day in Patagonia! We were treated to the spectacular sight of not one, but two stunning male Torrent Ducks riding the rapids of the Río Fitzroy. These aren't your average pond ducks! These are the white-water kayakers of the avian world, true specialists, built to thrive in the fast-flowing rivers of the Andes. The story goes something like this..... So, we set up camp and immediately embarked on an expedition to find the elusive Torrent Ducks. We'd been hiking past their neighborhood earlier but hadn't spotted any. Cut to: five minutes from camp. Richard asks to...
November 6, 2025 by Kiersten
Some of my favourite finds from a potter about town. I've been feeling pretty rough with some bug I've caught, I'm hopeful I'm over the worst now so I'm catching up with some pictures. The first picture, not the greatest of pictures as this was a long way off but it tells a story. These Southern Lapwing birds are some of the feistiest parents in the world, they will fight off anything they see as a threat to their family. This Crested Caracara came under attack from the two Lapwing, both the Lapwings had deployed their spurs, the Caracara wisely...
November 5, 2025 by Kiersten
Some of my favourite finds today from a circular walk just by town. American Kestrel White-browed Ground Tyrant Andean Condor Spectacled Duck Chilean Flicker
November 2, 2025 by Kiersten
A few of my favourite finds today from a circular walk taking in three mountain lakes and Cerro Paredon above the town of El Chalten. A new bird for me, if I'm correct in my id, is the White-browed Ground Tyrant. Rufous-collard Sparrow Ashy-headed Goose Plumeous Sierra Finch White-browed Ground Tyrant
November 1, 2025 by Kiersten
A few of my favourite finds today from a walk beside the Rio de Las Vueltas. Austral Thrush Southern Lapwing Patagonian Sierra Finch Black-chinned Siskin Rufous-tailed Plantcutter
January 19, 2011 by Kiersten
Thought you might like to see one of the characters I met whilst in Patagonia recently. Its a White-throated Caracara (phalcoboenus albogularis).
We had walked to the Laguna Torre to get a nice close view of one of the most iconic mountains in the world, Cerro Torre, whilst admiring the view the Caracara came along and gave us a great half an hour or so of entertainment. Even people who had no interest in birds were taking photos and video. IMAGE REQD In the books it is described as shy and wary, well I can say I think the books need to be re-written as our bird seemed to thoroughly enjoy its encounter with humans. If you want to see more photos...
