December 2, 2025 by Richard
The condors taught us that the most magnificent views often lie just beyond the point where you think you can wait no longer
Silence from us usually means one of two things: utter failure, or the intense focus that precedes a hard-won victory. For the last few days, it was a frustrating mix of both. Our quest to photograph the Andean Condor in its raw, mountainous realm had become a game of chess. Two blisteringly hot days were spent manoeuvring into position, only to be rewarded with distant specks and the unmistakable, and somewhat mocking, view of condor backsides disappearing over ridges. Patience, as we were learning, is not a passive virtue in Patagonia; it is an active, aching endurance. A Change of...
November 28, 2025 by Richard
A day waiting for the appearance of the Andean Condor
Kiersten's portfolio from our trip is already overflowing with marvellous bird images. But one kingly absence remained: a close-up of the legendary Andean Condor. We were determined to fill that void. Yesterday was to be our "Day of the Condor." Our mission began with a scramble up the low rocks on the east side of Cerro Paredon, joining a ridge that feels like the spine of the world. To our west, the cliff face plummeted, a sheer drop straight down to the turquoise line of the Río de las Vueltas. The day was perfect, sun-drenched, warm, with only a gentle...
November 26, 2025 by Richard
A short walk from the edge of El Chaltén, a metal bridge offers a gateway to the quieter, eastern side of the Río de las Vueltas valley. Our destination was vague, but the promise of exploration led us down a dirt track towards the prominent "Eco" Camp, its cluster of large orange domes promising luxury amidst the wild Patagonian landscape. The true treasure of the day, however, wasn't the glamping site. Just before a sharp left-hand bend in the main track, an unassuming path branches off to the right. This is the start of a delightful circular trail that proved...
November 23, 2025 by Richard
A return to a classic Patagonian refuge reveals how the landscape, and the experience of trekking through it, has transformed over nearly two decades. The Rio Electrico Valley felt familiar, but the sound was different. The crunch of our boots on a wide, manicured trail had replaced the rustle and tear of pushing through spiky bush. This was the first sign that the Patagonia I remembered from 2006 was now a slightly different world. This three-day backpacking trip to the Refugio Piedra del Fraile and Laguna Pollone was a journey down memory lane, and at every step, the past whispered...
November 19, 2025 by Richard
The weather has finally cleared. After being cooped up by a spell of bad weather, we needed a hike to shake off the rust. The perfect solution? A half-day adventure in the Cerro Paredón hills, a range that's quickly becoming my favorite escape from the well-trodden paths of El Chaltén. What makes it so special? Just 30 minutes after leaving town, you're rewarded with marvellous views over the iconic Cerro Torre and Mt. Fitzroy ranges. Forget fighting the crowds on the popular Parque Nacional trails; this is your shortcut to serenity and spectacular scenery. And the best part? It's located...
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November 16, 2025 by Richard
We were stealing a day. Sandwiched between brutal weather alerts for wind and rain, we had a precious half-day window. The target? Chorillo del Salto, a popular waterfall just outside El Chalten. A 9km round trip with barely a hill to climb seemed like the perfect, sensible mission. "Sensible," however, is a relative term in Patagonia. To beat the crowds, we launched our assault at 8 am, while the rest of El Chalten was still sipping coffee and crunching cornflakes. The strategy worked; the trail was nearly empty. But we hadn't beaten the cold. The bitter wind sweeping off the...
November 13, 2025 by Richard
The Patagonian weather is finally breaking. After days of settled conditions, the script has flipped: while patches of sun still linger, the peaks are now swaddled in cloud, and the wind has arrived with a vengeance. These are the strongest gusts we’ve felt in the 13 days since we arrived. A proper Patagonian welcome. And that’s saying something. Patagonia is notorious for its ferocious winds, but to experience them is something else entirely. I’ve stood on my share of windy mountain tops, but this is like nothing else on the planet. There’s a reason these winds feel so profound. They...
November 11, 2025 by Richard
"I don't think the clouds are going to change color," Kiersten said, her voice barely audible over the wind screaming across the ridge. I grunted, a non-committal "Hmmmm," that hid the battle raging in my mind. We were at 1,276 meters on Loma de Pliege Tumbado, a spot I’d called my favourite viewpoint in all of Patagonia. We had sweated for five hours to get here for this overnight bivouac. Sunset was in three hours. And now, my wife was offering me a way out, sealed with a single, magical word: Malbec. "OK," I said. "Let's go." This is the...
November 8, 2025 by Richard
Just back from a stunning two-day backpacking trip to Laguna Torre, at the foot of the mighty Cerro Torre. We're committed to honest travel tales, the sublime, the frustrating, and the downright ridiculous. So, here's our warts-and-all report from the trails. The Good Let's start with the obvious: the scenery is otherworldly. The jagged summits of Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, the ancient glaciers, the turquoise lakes, and the wind-sculpted Lenga forests—it's a landscape that defies hyperbole. On a good day, Patagonia is untouchable. The D'Agostini campsite is worth every peso of the 20,000 ARS fee. It’s a haven of...
November 4, 2025 by Richard
Another day, another slow pace: just 8km in 5 hours. But today, we have some pretty good excuses. Our first detour was to the Mirador de Cóndores. After an hour of watching a playful group of Kestrels with no condors in sight, we were about to give up. Then, as if on cue, a lone condor passed right over our heads, no more than ten meters away. Kiersten definitely got some amazing shots. We then hiked on to the Mirador de Águilas (Eagle's View). Guess what? No eagles. The fine view of the icebergs floating on distant Lago Viedma was...
November 3, 2025 by Richard
Let me start with a confession: I am utterly unequipped to do today’s hike justice. My vocabulary fails me, and while I’m a perfectly acceptable photographer, my images are but pale echoes of the reality we witnessed. They capture a moment, but not the soul-stirring, immersive feeling of being there. So, I won’t try to wax lyrical. Instead, I’ll simply tell you about the walk—the Cerro Paredón circuit—and why, if you ever find yourself in El Chalten, you should make it your first priority. I’ll leave you with my photos, which I’m genuinely happy with, even as I acknowledge their...
November 1, 2025 by Richard
The day began, as so many do, at the National Park office. It was a visit that proved more worthwhile than we could have imagined. We were hit with the news straight away: a whopping $45 per person, per day, to hike in the park. Considering we're here for over a month, that number was enough to make our wallets whimper! Fortunately, we discovered a loophole in the form of an annual pass for 225,000 pesos (about $160 each). Still a significant investment, but our best option by far. The real win, however, was securing permission to bivouac at a...
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