November 5, 2025 by Richard in El Chalten
Greetings from the bottom of the world, where the weather is as predictable as a coin flip and the beer is cheaper than a decent cup of coffee. First, a mission statement. We’re not here to sell you a lie. You won't find a single photo of us, tanned and serene, doing yoga on a sun-drenched glacier. No, sir. We’re here to bring you the raw, unvarnished, and often damp truth of Patagonia. Think of us as your friendly, slightly shivering reality TV show from the Andes. So far, the "good, warm weather, sun and blue skies" package has been...
November 5, 2025 by Kiersten in Wildlife
Some of my favourite finds today from a circular walk just by town. American Kestrel White-browed Ground Tyrant Andean Condor Spectacled Duck Chilean Flicker
November 4, 2025 by Richard in Hiking
Another day, another slow pace: just 8km in 5 hours. But today, we have some pretty good excuses. Our first detour was to the Mirador de Cóndores. After an hour of watching a playful group of Kestrels with no condors in sight, we were about to give up. Then, as if on cue, a lone condor passed right over our heads, no more than ten meters away. Kiersten definitely got some amazing shots. We then hiked on to the Mirador de Águilas (Eagle's View). Guess what? No eagles. The fine view of the icebergs floating on distant Lago Viedma was...
November 4, 2025 by Richard in El Chalten
A symphony of artisanal, sun-dried durum wheat pappardelle, generously enveloped in a slow-cooked passata di pomodoro. This foundation is elevated by a confit of sweet, translucent gold shallots, offering a delicate sweetness that harmonises with the tender, hand selected broccoli florets, roasted to al dente perfection. The dish is a testament to the beauty of simplicity, allowing the purity of each curated component to resonate on the palate. The reality ... Pasta, Italian sauce packet, onions & broccoli mixed together A fiercely dedicated smoke-kissed sauté pan, bearing the profound, smoky patina of a blisteringly high-heat finish.
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November 3, 2025 by Richard in El Chalten
Today marked a little shift in our Patagonian adventure. We said a temporary goodbye to the wonderful Gabriella at the Hotel Confin Patagonico (thanks to Claudia and Jorge who gave us a fantastic deal ¡mil gracias! and moved to a new base camp. Through their recommendation, we’re now settled into a compact and brilliant apartment run by their good friend, Fernando. The service was seamless help with our bags was included, a touch we can’t recommend highly enough! While our stay at Confin Patagonico was great, Fernando’s place on the main drag is exactly what we were looking for, and...
November 3, 2025 by Richard in El Chalten
Patagonia is known for its ferocious winds. Today they were generally light but there were occasional strong gusts. Kiersten took advantage of this to give her hair some styling.
November 3, 2025 by Richard in Hiking
Let me start with a confession: I am utterly unequipped to do today’s hike justice. My vocabulary fails me, and while I’m a perfectly acceptable photographer, my images are but pale echoes of the reality we witnessed. They capture a moment, but not the soul-stirring, immersive feeling of being there. So, I won’t try to wax lyrical. Instead, I’ll simply tell you about the walk—the Cerro Paredón circuit—and why, if you ever find yourself in El Chalten, you should make it your first priority. I’ll leave you with my photos, which I’m genuinely happy with, even as I acknowledge their...
November 2, 2025 by Kiersten in Wildlife
A few of my favourite finds today from a circular walk taking in three mountain lakes and Cerro Paredon above the town of El Chalten. A new bird for me, if I'm correct in my id, is the White-browed Ground Tyrant. Rufous-collard Sparrow Ashy-headed Goose Plumeous Sierra Finch White-browed Ground Tyrant
November 1, 2025 by Kiersten in Wildlife
A few of my favourite finds today from a walk beside the Rio de Las Vueltas. Austral Thrush Southern Lapwing Patagonian Sierra Finch Black-chinned Siskin Rufous-tailed Plantcutter
November 1, 2025 by Richard in Hiking
The day began, as so many do, at the National Park office. It was a visit that proved more worthwhile than we could have imagined. We were hit with the news straight away: a whopping $45 per person, per day, to hike in the park. Considering we're here for over a month, that number was enough to make our wallets whimper! Fortunately, we discovered a loophole in the form of an annual pass for 225,000 pesos (about $160 each). Still a significant investment, but our best option by far. The real win, however, was securing permission to bivouac at a...
November 1, 2025 by Richard in Travel
If you’ve been following this TravelLog, you’d be forgiven for thinking we’re two joy-sucking vampires who hate fun, sunlight, and functional transportation. The journey had been a masterclass in frustration, requiring the patience of a saint and the resilience of a Nokia 3310. But then we flew into El Calafate, and the travel gods finally decided to stop using us as their personal punchbag. Being a small municipal airport, we collected our bags in roughly 20 minutes a timespan so brief I almost forgot how to scowl. Even others on our flight noticeably relaxed. Immediately, we were met by our...
November 1, 2025 by Richard in Travel
After a tough, frustrating 45 hours of difficult travelling, the final 3 hours were unmitigated bliss! The gods were smiling down on us as we approached El Chalten and the magnificent Mt Fitzroy welcomed us. Not the best image as shot from a mini bus travelling at 95kph, constantly hit by crosswinds and a dirty windscreen. Will write more about this magical 3 hour journey tomorrow but beer and pizza await.
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October 31, 2025 by Richard in Travel
A 45 second video summary of a 13 hour night flight from Madrid to Buenos Aires. The first time I've had my safety demonstration done, not by the plane stewards, but in this case, by the Argentine football team. Unique thinking from Aerolineas Argentina!
October 31, 2025 by Kiersten in Travel
I'm British. Queuing is supposed to be in my blood, a national sport I'm meant to excel at. But it turns out, I absolutely hate it. What I truly love is the alternative I'm experiencing right now: being in a car with a driver who’s a straight-up reject from Wacky Races, charging across Buenos Aires at a quarter to six in the morning. This isn't a commute; it's a rally stage. Our mission: make it to the next airport. And as I type this, hurtling past sleepy buildings, I've never felt more alive. This is the antidote to the soul-crushing...
October 30, 2025 by Richard in Travel
Well, that was stressful. From arrival at the airport to sitting down with a well deserved beer took 2.5 hours! Long queues at checkin/bag drop, security and passport control. Making me think seriously about doing any more long haul travelling. P.S Bet I'm thinking differently in a months time. Maybe I'm not just fickle, I'm a really grumpy old man too 🤣
October 30, 2025 by Kiersten in Travel
There’s a certain magic that settles in once you’re finally on your way. The frantic energy of the last few weeks begins to dissolve, replaced by the gentle hum of the engine and the promise of adventure. For us, that moment came three and a half hours into the bus journey to Madrid airport. The world outside blurs, and you’re left in a bubble of transition. You miss an announcement or don't quite understand one, and it doesn’t matter. You find yourself wondering, will the bus stop along the way? and silently hoping it doesn't. It has a toilet and...
October 30, 2025 by Richard in Travel
It's always quite a sad moment when we go on our travels to leave home and our dogs. Even more so when it's an extended trip. Do they sense it will be a lengthy parting or is it just us assuming so? So we left home at first light and are thankful to our neighbour for driving us to Granada bus station for the 9am bus to Madrid airport. Bus travel has come on a lot. Leather seats, headrest tablets, adjustable seats, lots of storage options, free WiFi etc. Time for a 5 hour chill out now after all the...
