Micro Blog

El Perro Negro's Day to Day Ramblings

Notes – 2024 (285)

Sorry been out of touch my fellow federation members. Had a bit of a rough week. Energy crashed after finishing my 12 day trek through the Italian Dolomites. At the same time a minute grass spike that had been lodged in my thumb for a month decided to become infected. Very painful and still unable to use my right hand. To cap it all the journey back home to Spain was long, drawn out and frustrating, thanks Ryanair! Slowly getting my mojo back though.

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2/2 What a blast it has been. Apart from the dramatic scenery we have met some interesting people, stayed in incredible places & eaten great food. We are already thinking of coming back & using some refuges as a base for via ferrata.

Thanks to @khusky for being the ultimate hiking buddy.

Now for two days relaxation & sightseeing before our return to Spain.

Here's a, totally unrelated, short video of an adorable cat we encountered at a refuge coffee stop this morning.

1/2 Today we finished our trek through the Italian Dolomites and hiked out to the town of Fiera di Primiero.

First week on the Alta Via 2 and the second making our own way on deserted trails, over narrow passes and alpine pastures.

My watch tells me we have covered 130 kilometres with over 7000 metres of ascent/descent. No wonder the old legs are showing signs of accumulated fatigue.

A hiker walk along a narrow path through a very green forest

To the left of a dark tree are green forest tops and a background of mountain peaks with cloud interspersed in their summits

A green alpine pasture with some the stumps in the foreground. Behind some mountains with cloud

Dolomites Alta Via 2 day 10

Local hike near Sagron today as heavy rain around. We did a 7km loop to the Val delle Moneghe. A marvellous viewpoint and a winter ice climbing playground. Then on up through the forest to the refuge of the same name.

Some great lighting early on through the forest sections as seen on the images below

Looking up the valley of the Val delle Moneghe

Sunshine and morning mists illuminate a shadowed forest track

Sunshine and morning mists illuminate a shadowed forest track

After 10 days we finally had to put on our 20€ ponchos 🤣

Have to say though they worked fine. Backpack and ourselves remained dry and comfortable. Good job we were going downhill though as would be a sweat trap heading up. After an umbrella maybe the ultimate rain garment?

With @khusky

A person with a yellow poncho and another with a blue one stand in a rainy forest looking miserable

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Dolomites Alta Via 2 day 9

Today we clocked over the 100km accumulated mark as we made our way to Passo Cereda.

A quick stop there and then it was on another 4km to a little gem of a hotel we found. Yes, no refuge for us tonight, a bit of a treat. Hotel Giasenei in the tiny hamlet of Sagron, situated on a raised alpine meadow surrounded by stunning peaks. Just glorious.

Here for two nights as bad weather coming in. Just local hike tomorrow.

The small hamlet of  Matiuz near Sagron

Small buildings sit in grassy meadows with huge peaks towering above

Forest with lovely light coming through

Hotel Giasenei near Sagron.

One of the nice things about long distance trails like the one we are on at present is the people from all walks of life and countries that you meet along the way. The common denominator for all is the trail itself and it unites.

Each night we talk about the days adventures and discuss plans for the day to come. An eye is also kept out for them at the next refuge.They become trail mates and a certain camaraderie develops.

Here's a few images from yesterday

A house sits at the left hand edge of a green grassy alp with a curtain if pine trees behind. At the back on the right rises s huge grey limestone mountain

A glacial river gushes downstream through boulders. The riverbanks are surrounded by pines. At the back is a mountain with cloud on the sunmit

A gap in some large pine trees in a forest suggests a warn sunny opening ahead

Layers of green grasses and trees stretching into the distance. The grass in the foreground is illuminated by the morning sun

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Wouldn't everybody love to live in a house like this?

A pretty alpine cuckoo clock house sits on. a green field with a huge mountain riding behind

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Continuing our journey we headed SE from San Martino passing through mature forests & stunning alpine meadows. A few hours later we emerged at the Forcella Col dei Cistri & the magnificent peaks of the Val Canali appeared ahead. Our next challenge.

If the weather allows we head up the Val Canali valley tomorrow morning to do the "Ferrata de Canalone" just above the Rifugio Treviso.

A person with a climbing helmet attached to a rucksack stares at the green pastures in front. Behind are a range of mountains and pine trees

Dolomites Alta Via 2 day 7

Italian Meteo had multiple alerts out over the next few days for rain and thunderstorms. We made the decision to take a lower variant of the AV2 that skirted the west side of Pale di San Martino massif.

This 11km trail led us down through beautiful alpine meadows & over rolling hills to Passo Rolle. There we caught local bus to the chic alpine resort of San Martino di Castrozza.

Tomorrow depends again on the weather.

Starting the trail down through green pines and meadows to Passo Rolle. Above the hiker are dramatic rock faces

A road winds its way through green hillsides. Above rise some dramatic mountain peaks of the Pale di San Martino range

Looking through a gap in some pine trees towards a mountain rock face riding up and with clouds interspersed in the summit

An upper area of barren rock faces and verticality contrasts with the green lushness of a valley floor

Its a tough life in the mountains, especially on a long distance trek like the Italian Alta Via 2. But tonight I must be honest. We are staying at the lovely Hotel/Rifugio Capanna Passo Valles where we are indulging in such local luxuries as Aperol Spritz, Apfel Strudel and flavoured grappas.

Making the most of it as tomorrow we head back up to the more basic mountain refuges for 3 nights

4 Aperol Spritz orange and pink flavored drinks

Apfel Strudel desert with custard cream

4 small glasses of favoured grappas. Pine resin, honey, blueberry and herb

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Dolomites Alta Via 2 day 6

Passo San Pellegrino to Passo Valles

Short rest day today so a lie in, leisurely breakfast & a 6km stroll to our overnight refuge. Just arrived at midday when the heavens opened & an incredible rain and hail storm erupted. What luck we had not been caught out.

Now tucking into "gnocchi con ricotta affumicata" (delicate potato dumplings with smoked cheese)

Photos from our approach walk to the Pale di San Martino range

Green meadows with and approaching storm behind

Approaching the Pale di San Martino mountains. Wild flowers in a green meadow

Rays of light between pine trees with a mountain range behind

A hiker walks towards some distant mountains

All during the long afternoon descent from the pass at Forca Rossa these jagged mountains were in view. They are our next challenge to cross. Much more technical evidently. They look it!

5 days on the trot are beginning to tell. Thankfully as we are near the half way point we have built in 2 half days for the next section to the Rifugio Mulaz.

Looking forward to a short break to let the legs and lungs recover.

Twp hikers walk through a green meadow with some jagged mountains behind them

Dolomites Alta Via 2 day 5

Rifugio Castiglioni Marmolada to Passo San Pellegrino. 14km, 1000+m ascent.

Very tough day ascending through the humid, oppressive pine forests near Malga to the pass at Forca Rossa. Then nice descent through colourful alpine meadows lined with wild flowers to San Pellegrino.

An alpine refuge sits at the base of the Marmolada mountain

Descending through green alpine meadows

Looking at the stunning view. The south face of the Marmolada mountain behind

Ascending the path that led to the pass at Forca Rossa

I'm finding the bedroom via ferratas much more dangerous and exposed than the mountain ones 🤣

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Dolomites Alta Via 2 day 4

Rifugio Pisciadu - Rifugio Castiglioni Marmolada

Threat of afternoon thunderstorms had us leaving refuge early at 6am. Had these glorious mountains to ourselves as we climbed steep snowfields & scrambled along cable assisted passages. We crossed over the alti plano, lunar landscape of the Sella Group to drop down to the busy road pass at Passo Pordoi and onto our overnight stay at the base of the magnificent Marmolada.

Green alpine meadows contrasting with the stark grey limestone mountainsides

Crossing the lunar landscape of the alti plano of the Sell Group

Crossing snowfields on the way to the Rifugio Boe

The Rifugio Pisciadu reflected in the lake of the same name

Some photos taken by a friend from today's trip between the Rifugio Puez and the Rifugio Pisciadu on the Alta Via 2

Journeys end near the refuge

Coffee stop at Rifugio Jimmi

At a col before dropping down to Passo Gardena

Me at the col

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Dolomites Alta Via 2 day 3

Rifugio Puez to Rifugio Pisciadu

Another tough day of startling contrasts. From the beautiful early morning departure and excellent traverse to the dramatic Cir pinnacles to the crowded mass of noisy humanity at Passo Gardena.

The final 450m climb up the gully (Val Setus) to the refuge was as expected, very gnarly with cables assisting uplift in the upper section. Stunning scenery though.

The Rifugio Pisciadu 2487 metres. Some spectacular mountain scenery behind the hut

Taking a break on a via ferrata section

Looking down a rocky pass towards some green alpine meadows

Spectacular rock scenery Cir Pinnacles above Passo Gardena

Dolomites Alta Via 2 day 2

Rifugio Genova to Rifugio Puez today. An exciting and interesting day travelling 11 km with 900 m ascent/descent. Up and over steep passes, stunning views and the added interest of mid morning coffee stop in a beautifully situated refuge and an optional via ferrata along the route, that we loved.

Wild flowers galore, chirping marmots, dramatic scenery. A tough day certainly but extremely rewarding.

Hikers on a path below a pass surrounded by mountains

Backpackers walk towards some distant mountain summits

A mountain in cloud towers above some green meadows with some walkers