Backpacking in the Pyrenees
Index
- Backpacking in the Pyrenees - the 3000 Ibones
- Arrival in Escarilla
- First look at Baños de Panticosa
- Day walk to the Refugio Respomuso 2150m
- Storms! Durston Mid-X 2 Tent Review
- Crossing Borders
- Return to Spain
- Vegetarians in Spain
- The Road Trip South
Backpacking in the Pyrenees - the 3000 Ibones
Not many english speakers have heard of the 3000 Ibónes. Ibon is the Aragon word for mountain lake. It was this that first attracted me to the area which lies west of the Ordessa/Vignamale range. I had never been to the Pyrenees so the idea of camping by lakes and rivers and skipping over the border passes between Spain and France held an appeal.
We initially intended to do the full 7 day and 100km+ itinerary but concerns over weight to be carried cut this plan back to 2 - 3 day excursions instead. I have hit 70 years of age and need every bit of help I can get. For a 3 day trip I could cut my weight down to 7kg including consumables.
Arrival in Escarilla
The drive from my home in Lanjaron to our base at Escarilla in the Pyrenees would take 9 hours. We split the journey and stayed overnight at the Hotel Marivella in Calatayud, leaving a 2 hour journey to the Pyrenees the following morning.
Escarilla is a small but charming village located in the Tena Valley and situated at an altitude of 1,150 meters. It offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and is known for its peaceful atmosphere and traditional Pyrenean architecture.
Reflections in a lake
Luckily, our friends Jill and Pete have an apartment in Escarilla and they very kindly allowed us to stay with them. This was perfect as a backpacking base, the start of our planned route from Baños de Panticosa being only a 20 minute drive away.
We had an afternoon drive to Formigal to get a feel for the area and to see some rare Ladies Slipper Orchids (Cypripedium calceolus).
Riverside flowers and distant mountains, Formigal
First look at Baños de Panticosa
Jill and Pete took us to visit Baños de Panticosa, a renowned spa and mountain resort nestled at an altitude of 1,636 meters, surrounded by stunning alpine landscapes, high peaks, glacial lakes, and lush forests. The resort is famous for its thermal springs, known since Roman times for their therapeutic properties.
Baños de Panticosa
The first impression I had was seeing the volume of water coming off the mountains in a series of huge waterfalls. Just incredible, and testament to the amount of late season snow that was still around in the mountains.
We walked the short distance to see the Cascada del Barranco de Argualas, a dramatic, narrow cascade plunging into small turquoise pools and surrounded by sheer rock walls and moss-covered boulders, giving it a wild, untouched feel.
Day walk to the Refugio Respumoso 2150m
10th June 2025
Due to an AEMET weather warning for the area we cancelled our proposed 3 day trip and opted for a day walk to the Refugio Respomuso instead. Last thing we wanted was to spend the first night camping out in storms. The hike to the refuge is one of the most scenic and accessible high-mountain hikes in the area and starts at La Sarra Parking (1,630m)
The ascent
It's a big day though with 17km round trip and 520m ascent in a steady climb with rocky sections follow the GR-11 trail along the Caldarés River, passing the Cascada de Panticosa and the Puente de Coronas. You enter the Valle de los Ibones, with glacial lakes and the trail steepens near Piedras Blancas. There is a final climb to the Respomuso Reservoir. The refuge sits just above the dam.
Refugio de Respumoso
It was a good introduction to the area but we knew this June we would have to deal with high temperatures, afternoon storms and lots of water running off the mountains possibly causing difficulties crossing rivers.
Gushing waters
- Distance: 13km
- Ascent/Descent: 737m
- Duration: 6 hours